Short-Crested Wave Breaking
James T. Kirby and Morteza Derakhti, Center for Applied Coastal Research, Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering, University of Delaware, Newark, DE 19716 USA
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Peregrine (1999), in discussing the effect of localization of wave energy dissipation as a generation mechanism for vorticity at the scale of individual waves, spurred a wave of study of vorticity dynamics and mixing processes in the wave-driven ocean. In deep water, the limited depth of penetration of breaking effects leads to the conceptual forcing of a 鈥渟moke-ring鈥� reulsitng from the localized cross-section of impulsive forcing (Pizzo and Melville, 2013). In shallow water, depth limitations favor the generation of a quasi-two-dimensional field of vertical vortex structures, with a resulting inverse cascade of energy to low wavnumbers and the evolution of flows such as transient rip currents (Johnson and Pattiaratchi, 2006).
In this study, we are examining a more detailed picture of the vorticity field evolving during a localized breaking event, with particular interest in the span from deep water to shallow water, with special attention to the transition from weak to strong bottom control. Using an LES/VOF model (Derakhti and Kirby, 2014), we examine the evolution of coherent vortex structures whose initial scales are determined by the width of the breaking region, and are much larger than the locally-controlled reverse horseshoe structures seen in typical studies of along-crest uniform breaking. We study the persistence of three-dimensionality of these structures and their contribution to the development of depth-integrated vertical vorticity, and comment on the suitability of 2D or quasi-3D models to represent nearshore flow fields.
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